If you’re not familiar with Leroux, he became the technical director of Comte Armand at 24, before which he enrolled in viticultural school at 15. In other words, the writing was on the wall. His style is polished, elegant, and vibrant. Despite rapidly trending toward ‘benchmark’ status amongst people who know what’s up, his wines still offer phenomenal value for the price.
This is a high-grown wine of wonderful purity and mineral drive. Leroux has been making this wine from the same 0.45 hectares of vines since 2002 (pre-2007, he made it at Comte Armand). This is from three parcels in Vireuils Dessus—one of the higher sites of Meursault—which sits above the renowned Les Chevalières and Rougeots lieux-dits in one of the best parts of Meursault for villages level. Vireuils is an east-facing, late-ripening site, with pure, rocky, limestone and flint soils and vines around 45 years of age. This cooler terroir is picked a good week after the village wine. Aging took place in older 300-litre barrels.
Pronounced aromas of green apple and lime peel. There is plenty of acidity, but more than that there is a lovely silky character as well. Leroux describes the parcel in Meursault Vireuils as 'limestone on limestone', noting that there are many limestone pebbles in the thin soils here. Even in 2020, the grapes were picked at a moderate 13% alcohol, and fermentation in used casks did nothing to hide the purity of the fruit. - Charles Curtis MW
