If you’re not familiar with Leroux, he became the technical director of Comte Armand at 24, before which he enrolled in viticultural school at 15. In other words, the writing was on the wall. His style is polished, elegant, and vibrant. Despite rapidly trending toward ‘benchmark’ status amongst people who know what’s up, his wines still offer phenomenal value for the price.
Another bona fide estate wine this year, with the fruit hailing from Leroux’s own vines in Moulin Landin, Les Criots, Bois de Blagny and Les Millerands. There’s also some Clos du Village, one of the new parcels in Meursault that Leroux picked up following the 2017 harvest. Fruit from the white marls of Bois de Blagny accounts for 20% this year and brings incredible drive and salty/mineral backbone to the layered, fleshy Meursault fruit. Leroux tells us the Blagny fruit on its own is sometimes almost too zesty and mineral, but brings so much to the blend, especially in warmer vintages. He also told us the previous owner was not aware this parcel was entitled to apply for 1er Cru status, so it remains classified as village level.
Each of these sites is certified organic and managed with biodynamic methods. The oldest vines date back to 1944. Fermentation and élevage took place in a mix of 300-litre and 600-litre barrels before the wine was racked to foudre and stainless steel to finish aging.
“From domaine vineyards in Criots, Millerands, Moulin Landin, Clos du Village, Bois de Blagny. Pale lemon colour. Excellent tension. This is really top class, with the weight of fruit at the back of the palate, some fresh plums, very long with just the right thread of acidity. This is a first rate village Meursault.”
