PYCM 2018

Very few producers reach this upper echelon of Burgundy. But it took no time for him to reach superstar status with his whites, which are centered around the villages of Chassagne and Saint-Aubin.  Pierre Yves came on the scene in the mid-2000s, having Burgundy run through him and his wife's blood for generations (he is the eldest son of the famous Marc Colin). He is now considered one of the most sought after producers of white Burgundy.  The PYCM style is generous, but not without his signature purity and tension of fruit and acidity, everything is in perfect balance, and each note ends in a symphony. I recently drank an 07 Chassagne from him that was absolutely SINGING, one of the best bottles of white Burgundy I have ever had.  His 2017 Pernand Vergellesses "Sous Fratille" last year was one of the most compelling young white wines I have ever had. I believe his Burgundies are most outstanding when younger.  While the consensus has always been to age white Burgundy for lengthy periods of time, I am firmly in the camp that under 10 years of age, or even under 5 years, is a great age for many whites from here. Over the years he has slowly expanded his vineyard holdings and is now producing wines from the Beaune as well.  Today we are offering out some new releases from Pierre Yves, a couple from his newly acquired Rully and Pernand vineyard sites.

What makes him so special? There are not many who can emulate PYCM, but many have tried.  So many techniques have started in Burgundy and spread to every corner of the industry.  If Chardonnay is grown in a region, chances are there are winemakers who copy what guys like PYCM, Roulot, and Lafon are doing...

"He presses his grapes very slowly, racking directly into 350L barrels to allow fermentation to start naturally. He never stirs the lees and the wines see two winters in his gravity-fed, freezing cold cellar under Chassagne, before being bottled unfined an unfiltered. Yet there is an undeniably fantastical quality to the sublime balance found in the wines that reveals an essential truth about the mystery of great wines. There is no clear recipe that one could follow to achieve what Pierre-Yves has achieved, despite the many who try. The magic is in the small, everyday decisions that a vigneron makes based on a combination of instinct and experience. With PYCM, it all comes together to become so much more than the sum of his winemaking parts."

 

Pierre regards the 2018 vintage as perfect for him....

"2018 is truly the first vintage where we felt that we were able to comfortably master, from start to finish, the vineyard work, growing season, and harvest, with complete serenity. It all came together in 2018; integrating the new vineyards the two of us have taken control of over the last ten years, and getting our team and harvesters (now as many as 60+) set up perfectly.

The appellation of St. Aubin is distinctly unique from most of the Côte de Beaune. Rather than the generally consistent gentle south orientation of the majority of the villages, the hamlets of Gamay and St. Aubin form a bowl that tends to twist and turn with a dizzying array of slightly different expositions, altitudes, gradients, rock and soil types. Most of the vineyards are also at fairly high altitudes that range from 300-400 meters for the top parcels.

Pernand-Vergelesses is one of the most picturesque hamlets in France. It is most famous for its portion of Grand Crus – Corton and Corton-Charlemagne – as well as some remarkably textured and chiseled white premier crus and village level wines.

What Pierre-Yves is doing today is investing in serious dirt, working with a very good farmer, and taking these wines to special places. He made it clear that he believes deeply in the place and is intent on making these bottlings part of the same conversation as his high-level St. Aubin, Rully, and even Chassagne. This is, for now, an unbeatable Chardonnay beauty for the money."