Paolo Bea “San Valentino” Umbria Rosso 2017 750ml

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Composed of 40% Sagrantino, 40% Sangiovese, and 20% Montepulciano, “San Valentino” comes partly from young vines (a dozen years old or younger) which Bea sees as not quite ready for prime time in one of his crus, and partly from 40- to 50-year-old vines from parcels not destined for inclusion in the crus. Fermented and aged two years in steel, then transferred to large Slavonian casksss for two additional years, this 2017 spent 41 days macerating on its skins, yet its texture is quite refined compared to more ferocious vintages of this wine. It soars on the nose and offers a bevy of spice as per usual, but this pulls back short of full-on wildness, and its balance is striking.